Friday, June 19, 2009

OTM is BACK

We've been frantically rebuilding our website following a major technical problem. www.onthemenuradio.com is live again. The OTM Audio Archive has been restored for the last 12 months of programs, and the rest going back to January 2004 will be added soon. Some new features like direct Blog, Twitter & Facebook links & a Google-style Search throughout the site are up or coming soon.

If you're a Podcast listener your Podcast access & download were unaffected. However, we did realize that the Program title could have been more descriptive - so here's the complete Program Descriptions for the past 12 months' program. Soon we'll make specific program content part of new Podcast loading.

We're SO glad to be back.......

June 19, 2009

Chef, Co-owner David Kinch, Manresa Restaurant, Los Gatos CA, first about Manresa, then joined by Cynthia Sandberg of Love Apple Farm – David & Cynthia talk with OTM about the very special interaction of Manresa & the Farm. Don’t miss a minute of this uniquely inspiring conversation.

June 7, 2009

More of our California adventures - this time mostly wine. Sara Brooks, GM, Napa River Inn, Napa; Marcos Uribe, Chef de Cuisine, Celadon, Napa; Bill Nancarrow, Asst. Winemaker, Duckhorn, St. Helena; Alex Reble, Associate Winemaker, Matanzas Creek, Santa Rosa; replay of a previous interview with Ehlers Estate, St. Helena – our interview with Winemaker Kevin Morrisey got lost in cyberspace, so we will redo in the near future.

May 31, 2009

Preview of 5Star Sensation, Cleveland OH June 13, maybe the world’s best BIG party with Loree Vick, Senior VP & Event Coordinator for University Hospitals of Cleveland & Luciano Pellegrini, Chef-partner, Valentino, Las Vegas; Molly Wizenberg; “A Homemade Life”; Alex Whitmore, Founder, Taza Chocolate; Somerville MA; Elaine Louie, “Savoir Fare London-Stylish Dining for under $2”.

May 24, 2009

Three GREAT California Chefs’ Michael Tusk, Chef-owner, Quince Restaurant, San Francisco; Nate Appleman, Chef-owner, SPQR & A16, San Francisco; Chef Sean Elliott, Bardessono, Yountville, CA. More great CA chefs coming in the near future as well!

May 17, 2009

Greg Hinson, Founder, O O Olive Oil, Petaluma CA; Matt Skinner; “Heard it through the Grapevine”; Helene Beck, Owner, La Vigne Organics, Sauces, Salsas, Preserves made from unusual fruits – Persimmons, Kumquats, etc.

May 10, 2009

OTM at the 2009 James Beard Awards. Lidia Bastianich, Lidia’s Italy, Felidia Restaurant NYC, Lidia’s, Pittsburgh PA & numerous other ventures, Joyce Goldstein, Author & Food-Dining Guru; Emily Luchetti, Pastry Chef, Farallon, San Francisco talk about the significance of this year’s focus on Women Chefs; Nate Appleman, SPQR & A16, San Francisco reacts to winning Best New Chef; Mike Lata, Chef-partner, Fig, Charleston SC exults after winning Best Chef SE; Aldo Sohm, Head Sommelier, Le Bernadin NYC talks about winning Best Wine Service award, and about his life & experience as a Sommelier from humble beginnings to top of the heap; Executive Chef Craig Hopson, Le Cirque, NYC.

May 3, 2009

OTM goes East & Spicy. Monica Bhide, “Modern Spice”; Raghavan Iyer, “660 Curries”; Takashi Yagihashi, “Takashi’s Noodles; Fine Cooking Magazine; Michael Wales, Inventor, The Grill Daddy

April 26, 2009

Vitaly & Kimberley Paley, ‘The Paley’s Place Cookbook”, Partners, Paley’s Place, Portland OR; Nancy Baggett, “Kneadlessly”; Sara Jenkins, “Olives & Oranges:”; Fran Gage, “The New American Olive Oil”.

April 19, 2009

OTM is still California dreamin…. some interviews to wet our appetite. Gerald Higoyen, “Pinxtos”, Chef-owner of Piperade, San Francisco; Tony Biagi, Winemaker, Cade Winery, Howell Mountain CA; David Mirassou Wines, Monterey CA; Tilar Mazzeo, “Backroads of Sonoma”.

April 12, 2009

OTM indulges its Sweet Tooth. Johnny Iuzinni, “Dessert Fourplay”; Jacques Torres, “A Year in Chocolate"; Owner Jacques Torres Chocolate, NYC; Beth Nielsen, Nielsen –Massey Vanilla-based extracts, Waukegan, IL; Laura Werlin, “Great Grilled Cheese”.

April 5, 2009

OTM focuses on Wine, the upcoming 2009 Pittsburgh Wine Festival, Wines from Spain, and a couple of non-alcoholic alternatives. Finca Torremilanos, Ribiera de Duoro; Wines of Navarre; Pilar Garcia-Granero, President Navarre Wines; Enrique Martinez, Maher restaurant, Cintruenigo, Spain; Elizabeth Royte, “Bottlemania”; Reem Rahim, Puerh Teas from Numi.

March 29, 2009

OTM is California dreamin…… with a 2 week trip soon; you’ll hear about what we have planned – and some “apropos” interviews. Barbara Passino, Co-owner, Oak Knoll Inn, Napa CA & author “”Chocolate for Breakfast”; Taki Laliotitis, Chef at Matanzas Creek Winery, Santa Rosa, CA; Bruce Cohn, Owner B. R Cohn Winery, BRCohn Wine Vinegars, Condiments & Rubs, Glen Ellen CA; Nancy Harmon Jenkins, “New Mediterranean Cuisine” (yes California has a very Mediterranean flavor profile)

March 22, 2009

OTM in London Part 2. David Abbott, Chef-partner, Magdalen Restaurant; Rowley Leigh, Chef-owner, Le Café Anglais; Peter Gordon, Chef-owner, Providores & The Tapa Room; Sam Hart, Co-owner, Quo Vadis (also Fino & Barrafina).

March 15, 2009

OTM in Charleston SC for their great Food & Wine Festival. Barabara Heddinger, Garden Club Tours; Mitchell Crosby, Founding Committee Member of the Festival; Rick Tramonto, Executive Chef,-Partner, Tru, Chicago one of the Celebrity Chefs for the Festival; Brett McKee, Chef-owner, Oak Steak House; Ken Vendriski, Chef-owner, La Scala Trattoria.

March 8, 2009

OTM in London Part 1. Howard Hartley, Sales Mgr, The Grosvenor House, a JWMarriott Hotel, about the hotel’s now complete renovation & the 75th Annual Art & Antiques Fair, June 2009; Claude Bosi, Chef-owner, Hibiscus Restaurant; Bernard Yeoh, Owner, his Chef & Sommelier, Kai; Vineet Bhatia, Owner, Urban Turban & Rasoi.

March 1, 2009

Famed Chef-Restaurateur Charlie Trotter, 30+ minutes of Brilliant Insight- You shouldn’t miss this! Bruce Cohn, B. R. Cohn Wine Vinegars, Condiments & Rubs; Nancy Harmon Jenkins, “New Mediterranean Cuisine”, an updated version of this Cookbook Classic.

February 22, 2009

Donato Coluccio, Executive Chef, Capital Grille, Pittsburgh, A month-long Special Menu matched with Castello Banfi Belnero; T R Durham, Tracklements, Superb Smoked & Cured Fish; Dayna Butler, Microplane, Bob Kramer, Kramer Knives; Greenpeace Fish

February 15, 2009

Italian Wine Excitement in NYC – OTM tastes 2004 Brunello, Talks with Experts & Wine Makers from Tuscany, Calabria, Sicily, etc. Fred Plotkin & Darrel Corti, Expert Reflections on the Wines of Italy; Christina Mariani-May, Castello BANFI; Karen McNeil & Kevin Zraly, Italian Wine Experts on the merits of Brunello; Tenementi Angelini; Francesca Coppi, Cinelli Colombini; Lamberto Frescobaldi; Barone Martini Fini; Pozzi; Ippolito1845, Calabria; Stefania Pepe, Abruzzo.

February 8, 2009

Valentine Greetings from OTM! And OTM in Wintry NYC Part 2. Erica McMillan & Brett McKee, Charleston Food & Wine Festival; Ehlers Estate, thoughts for the Heart, Red Wine is good for Heart Health, in Ehlers case 100% of the profits go to International Heart Disease Research Projects; Toshio Suzuki, Chef-owner Sushi Zen NYC; Brad Farmerie, Chef-partner, Double Crown NYC; Pino Luongo, “Dirty Dishes”, Chef-owner, Cento Lire, NYC.

February 1, 2009

OTM finds Old Favorites & New Dining Delights in Wintry NYC – Part 1. Karen Waltuck & Roger Dagorn, Chanterelle NYC; John Fraser, Chef-owner, Dovetail, NYC; Jason Denton, Partner, Ino, Inoteca, Inoteca North & Lupa, all NYC; Harold Moore, Chef-partner & Tony Zazula, Partner, Commerce Restaurant, NYC.

January 25, 2009

Gale Gand, “Chocolate & Vanilla”, Pastry Chef-Partner, Tru, Chicago IL; Amy Scherber, “The Sweeter Side of Amy’s Bread:, Owner, Amy’s Bread, NYC; Lucio Matricardi, Talento Riserva Prosecco, Trentino, Italy; Al Nasti IO(Italian Organic) Blood Orange Juice from Sicily; Patrick Lango, White Cow Dairy, Yogurts, etc., East Otto NY.

January 18, 2009

John Folse is well just John Folse! He talks with OTM about Bittersweet Plantation, Donaldsonville, LA & his big food business nearby; Clark Wolf. “American Cheeses”; Charles Lefevre, The Oregon Truffle Festival & Oregon Truffles in general.

January 11, 2009

More New Orleans, and a stop along the way on Sanibel Island. Restaurants of the John Besh Group. Steve McHugh, Chef, Luke Brasserie; Randy Lewis, Chef-Partner La Provence, (Lacomb LA), Chef Jared Tees & GM Jeff Gulotta, Besh Steak; and on Sanibel, Melissa Talmadge, Sweet Melissa’s Café.

January 4, 2009

Christmas Cajun-Creole Style, OTM reports from the Crescent City. Donald Link, Chef Owner, Cochon, Cochon Butcher & Herbsaint; JoAnn Clevenger, Founder, Upperline; Ralph Brennan, Owner & Chip Flanagan, Chef, Ralph’s On the Avenue; Ben Thibodeaux, Palace Café. AND Rio Sabaducci, Inventor of a great Wine Gadget, the Vinturi Aerator.

December 28, 2008

Ana Quinconces Rodriguez, “Sabor!”; Jane Caswell, The Kalahari Pepper Co. Rhino Hot Sauces; Daniela Massey, The Spice Hunter Co., Spices & Rubs; Martina Kenworthy, Gustiamo, Bronx NYC, Italian Gourmet Dried Porcini Mushrooms.

December 21, 2008

Those Mercer Girls, Jenji, Bekah & Heather Sue, Ruby et Violette, NYC; Matt Lewis & Renato Poliafito, authors “Baked”, Owners, Baked NYC, Brooklyn; Julie Hasson, “The Complete Book of Pies”; Amanda Hesser, “Food Memory”; Jeremy Metzler, Yellingbo Gold EVO in 3 liter boxes.

December 14, 2008

Thomas Keller, “Under Pressure” & Founder, The Thomas Keller restaurant group including Per Se, NYC, The French Laundry, Bouchon & Ad Hoc, Yountville CA; Eric Ripert, “On the Line”; Chef-partner, Le Bernadin, NYC; in conclusion, Ann’s observations on what will be new & exciting, or troublesome with food & restaurants in 2009.

December 7, 2008

Erika McMillan, Special Events at the 2009 Charleston SC Food & Wine Festival; David Joachim, “Kitchen Science”; Micah Bertin & Bill Dehaven, Consafeco, manufacturers of the Alligetter; Ed Behr, “The Art of Eating” quarterly newsletter.

November 30, 2008

Ryan Johnson, Pilsner Urquell, celebrating 160 years of “Golden” lager brewing; Pilsen, Czech Republic; Steve Kolpan, “Winewise”; Fred Noe, Bourbon Ambassador, Jim Beam Brands, at the Pittsburgh Whisky Festival.

November 23, 2008

David Waltuck, “Chanterelle”, Chef-Partner, Chanterelle Restaurant, NYC: Chet Garland, Chef-Partner, Toast Restaurant & Wine Bar, Pittsburgh; Andrew Carmellini, “Urban Italian”.

November 16, 2008

OTM in Gay Paree, City of Lights & Fine Food! Cedric Jossot, Les Bouquinistes & Laurent Jacquet, Maitre Albert, both Guy Savoy Restaurants; Alain Pramil, Pramil; Food Chemistry Expert Herve This.

November 9, 2008

Andrew Dornenburg & Karen Page, “The Flavor Bible”; David Bedford, Apple Breeder, University of Minnesota; James Peterson, “Sauces” – 3rd edition.

November 2, 2008

GREAT Vasco Nuevo (New Basque) Cuisine in & around San Sebastian. Juan Mari & Elena Arzak, Arzak, San Sebastian; Francis Paniego, Echaurren, Ezcaray; Martin Berasategui, Lasarte; Andoni Aduriz, Mugaritz, Errenteria.

October 26, 2008

Dale Markham & Max Miller, Pittsburgh Whiskey Festival; Scott Beattie; “Artisinal Cocktails”; Susan Atkisson, Keuka Lake Roasters, Coffee-based Sauces & Rubs; Cindy Mushet, “The Art & Soul of Baking”.

October 19, 2008
OTM’s “Spanish Sojourn”. Great Rioja Wine discoveries, Gonzalo Lainez, Roda; Luis Valentin, Valenciso; Fritz Allhoff, Dan Haggart; CHERRish, Organic Cherry Juices & Blends; Francisco Migoya, “Frozen Desserts”

October 12, 2008

OTM in Virginia, other places not to miss; Tom Nash, Chef-owner, Thornton River Grill, Sperryville; Gerard Gasparini, Chef-owner, Pomme, Gordonsville; Greg Alauzen, Executive Chef, Cioppino, Pittsburgh, note Greg is now Corporate Chef for The Pipa Group; Fritz Allhoff, “Food & Philosophy”; Leslie Reichert, Green Cleaning Coach.

October 5, 2008

Ruth Reichl, Editor, Gourmet Magazine. OTM in Virginia, Part 3; Howard Foer, Executive Chef/Proprietor, Casanova Restaurant & Poplar Springs Old House; Casanova; David Scales, Executive Chef, The Inn at Meander Plantation; Warren Dunn, Virginia Wine Academy; Patrick Kearney, Old House Vineyard, Culpeper.

September 28, 2008

OTM in Virginia, Part 2; Frank & Sue Maragos, Foti’s, Culpeper; Al & Cheryl Kellert, Grey Ghost Vineyards; John & Diane MacPherson, Owners, The Foster Harris House & Tour de Epicure; Washington; Melissa Close, Chef & Luca Paschina Winemaker, Palladio Restaurant & Barboursville Winery.

September 21, 2008

OTM does Emilia Romagna, Part 2;.Pasquale Falanga, Executive Chef, I Carraci, Grand Hotel Baglioni, Bologna, Italy; Danilo DiPasquale, General Manager; Palazzo Viviani, Castello di Montegridolfo, Italy; Osteria De Poeti, Bologna, Italy; Franco Rossi, Ristorante Franco Rossi, Bologna

September 19, 2008

OTM in Virginia Part 1. Richard Lewis, Virginia Tourist Commission; Peter Matthews, Vineyard Mgr., Blenheim Vineyard; Charlottesville; Carol Asam, Asam Hotels, Owner, & Richard Mellar, Chef, The Mimslyn Inn, Luray.

September 14, 2008

OTM does Emilia Romagna, Part 1; Chef-owner Massimo Bottura, Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy; 2 segments, you should listen to both!; Giovanni Tamburini, Tamburini Gourmet Foodstore, Bologna, Italy; Cesare Chiara; Chef-owner, Ristorante Bitone, Bologna, Italy

September 7, 2008

Marie Simmons, “Sur La Table’s Things Cooks Love”; “The Waiter:, “Waiter Rant”, the Book & the Blog; Jeff Roberts, “The Atlas of Artisan American Cheese”; Tim Stark, “Heirloom: Notes from an Accidental Tomato Farmer”.

August 31, 2008

Two great wine “exposes; Alice Fiering, “The Battle for Wine & Love; or How I saved the World from Parkerization”; Ben Wallace, “The Billionaire’s Vinegar”; Nate Appleman, “A16: Food+Wine”; Richard Chen, Chef-partner, Richard Chen Pittsburgh (sadly this restaurant is now closed, Richard is still Executive Chef at Wing Lei, Las Vegas, the Pittsburgh restaurant is expected to re-open).

August 24, 2008

Jamee Enstrom & Doug Simons, Enstrom Candies; Grand Junction CO, Marcia Blackwell, Blackwells Organic Sorbet; Long Branch NJ; Melissa Murphy, “The Sweet Melissa Baking Book”, Owner, Sweet Melissa Patisserie, Brooklyn NYC; Jennifer McLagan, “Fat: An Appreciation of a Misunderstood Ingredient”.

August 17, 2008

Michel Nischan, Chef-partner, The Dressing Room restaurant, Westport CT, Founder, The Wholesome Wave Foundation; John Fischer, “The Culinary Institute Bistro & Brasserie Cookbook”; Jennifer Stoltz, SAN-J Organic Soy Sauces & Condiments; Richmond VA.; Justin Esch & Dave Lefkow, J & D’s Bacon Salt, Seattle WA.

August 10, 2008

OTM in a Drinking Mood. Dave & Jen Fox, Brave Spirits, Narberth PA; Paul Davis, Juniper Organic Gin, London, UK; Terry Xanthos, Frutzzo, Superjuices, Alpine UT; David Dahl, Dragon Pearl Tea Organic SE China Mountain Grown Organic Full-leaf Teas, Grover Beach CA.

August 3, 2008

2 Great Interviews from our Spring trip to Lombardy, Italy, The 2 Unusual Dining spots in NYC. Ermanno Taschera, Il Baretto al Baglioni, Milan, Italy; Dottore Sandro Boscaini, Owner, Masi Agricola, Valpolicella, Italy; Benjamin Prelvukaj, Co-owner, Benjamin Steakhouse, NYC; Julian Medina, Chef-owner, Toloache Mexican Bistro, NYC.

July 27, 2008

Leah Post & Brandon Weimer, Brandini Toffee; Daniel Jackson GM & Jamie Taylor, Chef, Nonna’s Sheffield, UK – A Truly Surprising Italian Restaurant that Peter found while visiting his Homeland; Fred Plotkin, “Italy for the Gourmet Traveler”.

July 20, 2008

OTM at 2008 Fancy Food Show Part 2. George Kashou, Kangaroo Brands, Milwaukee WI; Lan Wong, Petit Noirs, Milton Freewater OR; Dufflet Rosenberg, Dufflet’s Small Indulgences; , Toronto Canada; Martha Hall Foose, “Screen Doors & Sweet Tea”, Zov Karamardian, “Recipes & Memories from the Heart”, Owner, Zov’s Bistro, Tustin CA

July 13, 2008

OTM at 2008 Fancy Food Show Part 1. Principessa Marina Colonna, Superb Flavored EV Olive Oils from Molise, Italy; Fine Food & Beer from Wales – Margaret Carter, Patchwork Pates, Connie Parry, The Hurn Brewing Co.; Pilar Rodriguez, Chef, Atelier de Cocina, Santa Cruz on Chilean wines; Paul Bertolli, Fra-Mani Handcrafted Salumi, Oakland CA; Craig Lieberman, 34 Degrees Crackers, Denver CO.

July 6, 2008

Felix Segbafia, Saaf Ginger Beverage Co. Gingernize, Bonita CA; Zach Adelman, Navitas Naturals Powerfoods, Novato CA; Stacey DeHass; Amish Naturals Pastas, Condiments, etc., Holmesville OH; Stephanie Santoso, Amandarico Candies & Clouds, Wexford PA; Brain Ross, Twist Clean, Natural Wipes & Sponges.

June 29, 2008

Bill Kurtis, “The Prairie Table Cookbook”, Owner, Tallgrass Beef; Sedan KS; Michaele Weissman, “God in a Cup”; Timothy Childs, Co-founder, TCHO Chocolate, San Francisco; Ralph Brennan, “Ralph Brennan’s New Orleans Seafood Cookbook”.

June 22, 2008

Andy Nusser, Chef-partner, Casa Mono, NYC; Gary Roark, Ubon’s BBQ, Yazoo City, MS, interviewed at The Big Apple BBQ, NYC – Danny Meyer, Union Square Hospitality Group chimes in; Kim Hassarud, “101 Champagne Cocktails; Gary Vaynerchuk, The Wine Library.

Wednesday, April 29, 2009

Best 50 - "You can't be serious"

To quote John McEnroe. Some rankings are "spot on", like Le Bernadin, Arzak, Per Se & The French Laundry......... But St. John is better than Le B, you've got to be kidding. We've met and interviewed Fergus Henderson, and he's a wonderful man whose made a huge contribution to the food scene with his focus on disrespected animal parts. Likewise Momofuku Ssam Bar is 2 spots better that Martin Berasategui. How do the raters know El Bulli is absolutely the best year after year, when a reservation is harder to get than a personal audience with the Pope. This ranking thing is a dangerous game, as you may find if you let the Best 50 rankings affect your choices of where to go. Join the fun - let us know what you think.

World's Top 50 Restaurants - What do you think?

Any list of the World's top restaurants can't avoid being controversial, and the Restaurant Magazine San Pellegrino 50 Best Restaurants in the World is no exception. This year's biggest news is the complete exclusion of Gordon Ramsay. Based on OTM's own experience and what we hear "on the street" this seems more like vengeance, but everyone's entitled to their opinion. We're delighted to note that 5 of the top 10 and 9 of the top 20 Chefs/Owners have appeared at On the Menu, and we've actually sampled 6 of the top 10 and 12 of the top 20, just didn't get to interview at a couple of them. So we extend our congratulations to The Fat Duck, Mugaritz, Per Se & The French Laundry, Arzak, Alinea, Osteria Francescana, St. John, Le Bernadin, Tetsuya's & L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Paris, and of course all the others which we're sure to get to eventually. Special congratulations to Massimo Bottura at Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy, entering the list for the first time at No. 13, the highest new entry , and we're not the least surprised, Bravo Massimo!! Check out all the interviews in OTM's Audio Archive & OTM Highlights at www.onthemenuradio.com.

Saturday, April 4, 2009

2009 James Beard Awards - Share your favorites from among the Finalists

We know far too many of the nominees to pick and choose our own favorites - well not exactly - we have some favorites, we just don't think it's appropriate for On the Menu to go public. As we just noted, all are deserving, and we just know too many of them. But if you'd like to share with the OTM community........... Well that's a different matter

Numerous OTM Guests recognized by James Beard Award Nominations - listen to them in OTM Audio Archive

Congratulations to the following upon the announcement that they are finalists for the 2009 James Beard Foundation Awards to be announced at the "big bash" at NYC's Lincoln Center on May 4.

Mario Batali, Pat Kuleto, Frank Stitt & Jean Georges Vongerichten for Outstanding Restaurateur; Jose Andres, Dan Barber & Paul Kahan for Outstanding Chef; Nate Appleman & Sean Brock for Rising Star Chef; Jose Andres-The Bazaar Beverly Hills, Drew Nieporent-Corton NYC & David Chang-Momofuku Ko NYC for Best New Restaurant; Clark Wolf & Dorothy Cann Hamilton, inductees Who's Who of Food & Beverage in America; Pichet Ong for Best Pastry Chef; Daniel Boulud-Daniel NYC & Marc Vetri-Vetri Philadephia for Outstanding Service Award; Douglas Keane-Cyrus Healdburg & David Kinch-Manresa Los Gatos (interview upcoming) for Best Chef-Pacific; Michael Anthony-Grammercy Tavern NYC, Wylie Dufresne-WD50 & Gabriel Kreuther-The Modern for Best Chef NYC; Mike Lata-Fig & Bob Waggoner-Charleston Grill, both in Charleston SC for Best Chef SE.
We know they're all deserving of this recognition, and may the best persons win!!

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Connecting the dots.........

David Kinch of Manresa Restaurant in Los Gatos "blew away" Iron Chef America's Bobby Flay in a recent broadcast - I saw it late last night. David is a great fan of Chef Andoni Aduriz of Mugaritz, near San Sebastian. Today we published an article about Andoni and 3 other famous and brilliant Basque Chefs. Juan Mari & Elena Arzak & Martin Berasategui, who we interviewed for On the Menu last fall. We subsequently discovered that Chef Kinch is a huge fan of Chef Aduriz. We were already in the process of trying to arrange a visit to Manresa & an interview with David. More to come.... In the meantime our article is on-line at www.onthemenuradio.com under OTM in Print.

Monday, March 9, 2009

What was Perrier-Jouet thinking?

We love Perrier-Jouet as much as the next Champagne lover. BUT in these days of global financial crisis, collapsing economies AND the focus on GREEN concepts in food & drink, P-J's latest publicity stunt seems so far out of step, we feel compelled to comment. A recent tasting designed to promote a new P-J vintage involved gathering experts from around the world to taste 12 historic champagnes including the legendary "world's oldest surviving" 1825. Does this exercise in conspicious consumption, and rejection of "Carbon footprint" principles seem as out of step with current mores to you as it does to On the Menu. We'd love to know what you think......

Sunday, February 22, 2009

OTM's London dining extravaganza - Please share your opinions

In the words of the English nursery rhyme; “….. I’ve been up to London to see the Queen, …..what did you there?” On the Menu just went up to London, and while we didn’t see the Queen exactly, we did see some fine paintings from her collection at The Queen’s Gallery. And we didn’t chase a mouse under a chair like the pussy cat in the rhyme, but we did chase some excellent fine dining; and we found it. So what’s the news in the London scene? Well two Asian restaurants just collected their first Michelin stars. Kai Mayfair was an altogether splendid dining experience and we urge you to visit with Bernard Yeoh who founded this lovely restaurant 15 years ago, and just achieved stardom, first for a London Chinese restaurant. The location just a few steps from Park Lane in Mayfair couldn’t be more convenient. Prepare to be transported to a new world of Oriental flavors. If anything, Vineet Bhatia’s achievement at Rasoi is even more remarkable, since he just won a star for the 2nd time (first time at Zaika). We caught up with Vineet at Urban Turban, his Indian tapas-style eatery on trendy Westbourne Grove, and wish time would have allowed us to include Rasoi, a Chelsea restaurant so discreet you have to ring the doorbell to get in. Staying with an eastern theme we dropped in at Zuma, a high-styled, high-energy sister to Roka, on a quiet side street just off Knightsbridge. The wait-staff is almost as trendy as the stylish patrons, the ingredients and plating modern and exciting – and it tastes good!

London fine dining has always had a leaning to French, and that’s still true, but it’s modernized and modified now. Enterprising Claude Bosi and wife Claire made what seems like a huge gamble abandoning a Michelin 2-star reputation in far away Ludlow to re-launch Hibiscus Restaurant in the big city, losing one of their coveted stars in the process. They needn’t and didn’t worry, for they just got it back! In a stylish modern space just off Regent Street, Claude’s traditionally based technique combines with a larder of fresh, local British ingredients to provide delightful dining. Chef-owner Rowley Leigh at Le Café Anglais, one of the "grand old men" of what’s usually called Modern British took over a large space next to an old shopping center. He’s transformed what was a McDonalds into a sleek interior, with a "Bistro" style menu, focused around a huge Rotisserie, but with a whole section of the menu devoted to small plates and starters for sharing at the bar. And in keeping with Rowley’s taste there are NO New World wines on the list. Bord’Eaux in The Grosvenor House IS a French Bistro, acquired there, transported to London and augmented with high ceilings, etc. overcoming the typical claustrophobia frequently encountered at a typical French haunt. A new GM very French-ly christened Charlemagne welcomed us for lunch, and told us that Chef Ollie Couillaud (OTM Audio Archive April 20, 2008) was due to return to the kitchen after medical and paternity leave.

At Magdalen, one of our real “finds” on this visit, the two Chef-owners, David Abbott and James Foulkes were trained in French technique and share that country’s passion for offal. We were delighted to enjoy a small tasting dinner consistently entirely of “off-cuts”, all of which were simply delicious! Menu options are much broader than this, and the results of training at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir, where they met, and The Fat Duck where James started his culinary apprenticeship are clearly appreciated by diners who flock there. Only a short walk from Borough Market, Magdalen is a great lunch option on Thursday and Friday when their lunchtime opening coincides with the Market’s hours. Another new spot for us, Konstam, located in a seedy area near Kings Cross station specializes in fresh-local, using only ingredients from within a radius of about 20 miles. Chef-owner Oliver Rowe has a mischievous touch cooking and plating some unusual combinations, and everyone has fun: every seat in the small dining room has a view of the totally open kitchen. Wines of (surprisingly) good quality from Chapel Down in nearby Kent combine to make dining at Konstam a quite unique experience.

Peter Gordon, owner of Providores located amidst eclectic shopping on Marylebone High Street has been on OTM’s radar for 5 years, and we finally caught up with him on this trip. Peter insists his cuisine is “fusion”, and we agree: the menu combines tastes from S. E. Asia, Turkey, North Africa and more. The Tapa room on the ground level is a 7-day, all day eating place thronged with sippers and nibblers of all ages. No it’s not small Spanish bites, the name derives from an immense Tapa cloth hanging on the wall. This chef is part of an “antipodean invasion” of young chefs from Australia and New Zealand (where Peter comes from). This includes Shane Osborn at Pied a Terre (OTM April 8, 2007 & April 20, 2008), Brett Graham at The Ledbury (OTM April 1, 2007), David Thompson of Nahm (first Thai restaurant in Europe to receive a Michelin star), and Nic Watts at Roka (OTM April 10, 2005), all of whom we’ve met (and raved about) in the past; dates of their interviews in the OTM Audio Archive are in parentheses.

Brothers Sam & Eddie Hart who we met 5 years ago at Fino (OTM February 22, 2004), a great Spanish themed restaurant briefly closed now for repairs following plumbing-caused floods. They also opened Barrafina, a true Tapas bar, but we met them at their new venture Quo Vadis, a combination restaurant and private eating and drinking club. To prove their versatility the Harts decided on traditional British “comfort food,” which is well executed and just the thing to fortify diners for the cold and damp weather. The lovely dining room with art deco stained glass windows looking out to a Soho street enhances the eating experience. Skate wing was fabulous, Oxtail pudding perhaps an acquired taste but Peter loved it.

We experimented with 2 different experiences in London dining, both worthy of your consideration. First is a trip into the surrounding country for lunch or dinner and overnight at a luxurious “Country House”. Such places can be found in virtually every direction, but in our case we headed for Pennyhill Park, near the Royal Ascot racecourse, Windsor and Eton. Here we were delighted to renew acquaintance with Chef Michael Wignall, recruited from Yorkshire’s Devonshire Arms (OTM interview here broadcast May 14, 2006) to put restaurant, Latymer, on the culinary map – and he delivered, earning a Michelin star within a year. Michael’s delicately plated dishes are a treat for both eye and palate! But last summer’s guests the San Diego Chargers, who stayed there preparing for their pre-season game against the New Orleans Saints, opted for heartier fare!

Second, sampling the offerings of “Gastropubs,” a new take on “Pub Grub”, hearty traditional British favorites, is worth consideration. Gordon Ramsay now has a couple of these, but our test drive was at The Thomas Cubitt, in lovely Belgravia. Mr. Cubitt was apparently a builder responsible for much of the architecture in this part of London, and also an ancestor of Prince Charles’ new bride Lady Camilla. The ground floor pub section is convivial, and very noisy, which is great if that’s what you’re looking for. We tried the white table cloth upstairs dining room where the food is fine restaurant quality. This combination is replicated at a number of Gastropubs, and you’ll find it in places where a “First floor dining room” is indicated (for our American listeners, this is the 2nd floor.

Where did we go on Valentine’s Day you might be wondering? Fortunate to have a friend in the right place we got Iqbal Wahab (OTM April 27, 2008), owner Roast restaurant at Borough Market, to make a fashionably late lunch reservation at Roast, and what a good job we did! The glorious dining room at Roast was still busy at 5PM when we concluded Chef Lawrence Keogh’s (OTM March 18, 2007) great lunch selection with a slow-roasted lamb shoulder supposedly for 2 but enough for 4. Be warned if you’re in London for one of the special days which the UK has imported from the USA, like Valentine’s, Mother’s and Father’s Days. Book well in advance because everywhere is packed.

So did we miss anything? Well-known Chef Richard Corrigan (OTM March 18, 2007) now has Corrigan’s Mayfair, which is getting rave reviews; but we hear his well-loved Lindsay House is to close soon when the lease is up. For seafood lovers he also runs Bentley’s, just off Piccadilly. Murano, one of Gordon Ramsay’s latest ventures just won a Michelin star in its first year of operation. We couldn’t find time to fit them into our schedule, they were so busy, but there’s always next year……… What can we say except “enjoy!”