OTM's London dining extravaganza - Please share your opinions

In the words of the English nursery rhyme; “….. I’ve been up to London to see the Queen, …..what did you there?” On the Menu just went up to London, and while we didn’t see the Queen exactly, we did see some fine paintings from her collection at The Queen’s Gallery. And we didn’t chase a mouse under a chair like the pussy cat in the rhyme, but we did chase some excellent fine dining; and we found it. So what’s the news in the London scene? Well two Asian restaurants just collected their first Michelin stars. Kai Mayfair was an altogether splendid dining experience and we urge you to visit with Bernard Yeoh who founded this lovely restaurant 15 years ago, and just achieved stardom, first for a London Chinese restaurant. The location just a few steps from Park Lane in Mayfair couldn’t be more convenient. Prepare to be transported to a new world of Oriental flavors. If anything, Vineet Bhatia’s achievement at Rasoi is even more remarkable, since he just won a star for the 2nd time (first time at Zaika). We caught up with Vineet at Urban Turban, his Indian tapas-style eatery on trendy Westbourne Grove, and wish time would have allowed us to include Rasoi, a Chelsea restaurant so discreet you have to ring the doorbell to get in. Staying with an eastern theme we dropped in at Zuma, a high-styled, high-energy sister to Roka, on a quiet side street just off Knightsbridge. The wait-staff is almost as trendy as the stylish patrons, the ingredients and plating modern and exciting – and it tastes good!

London fine dining has always had a leaning to French, and that’s still true, but it’s modernized and modified now. Enterprising Claude Bosi and wife Claire made what seems like a huge gamble abandoning a Michelin 2-star reputation in far away Ludlow to re-launch Hibiscus Restaurant in the big city, losing one of their coveted stars in the process. They needn’t and didn’t worry, for they just got it back! In a stylish modern space just off Regent Street, Claude’s traditionally based technique combines with a larder of fresh, local British ingredients to provide delightful dining. Chef-owner Rowley Leigh at Le Café Anglais, one of the "grand old men" of what’s usually called Modern British took over a large space next to an old shopping center. He’s transformed what was a McDonalds into a sleek interior, with a "Bistro" style menu, focused around a huge Rotisserie, but with a whole section of the menu devoted to small plates and starters for sharing at the bar. And in keeping with Rowley’s taste there are NO New World wines on the list. Bord’Eaux in The Grosvenor House IS a French Bistro, acquired there, transported to London and augmented with high ceilings, etc. overcoming the typical claustrophobia frequently encountered at a typical French haunt. A new GM very French-ly christened Charlemagne welcomed us for lunch, and told us that Chef Ollie Couillaud (OTM Audio Archive April 20, 2008) was due to return to the kitchen after medical and paternity leave.

At Magdalen, one of our real “finds” on this visit, the two Chef-owners, David Abbott and James Foulkes were trained in French technique and share that country’s passion for offal. We were delighted to enjoy a small tasting dinner consistently entirely of “off-cuts”, all of which were simply delicious! Menu options are much broader than this, and the results of training at Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir, where they met, and The Fat Duck where James started his culinary apprenticeship are clearly appreciated by diners who flock there. Only a short walk from Borough Market, Magdalen is a great lunch option on Thursday and Friday when their lunchtime opening coincides with the Market’s hours. Another new spot for us, Konstam, located in a seedy area near Kings Cross station specializes in fresh-local, using only ingredients from within a radius of about 20 miles. Chef-owner Oliver Rowe has a mischievous touch cooking and plating some unusual combinations, and everyone has fun: every seat in the small dining room has a view of the totally open kitchen. Wines of (surprisingly) good quality from Chapel Down in nearby Kent combine to make dining at Konstam a quite unique experience.

Peter Gordon, owner of Providores located amidst eclectic shopping on Marylebone High Street has been on OTM’s radar for 5 years, and we finally caught up with him on this trip. Peter insists his cuisine is “fusion”, and we agree: the menu combines tastes from S. E. Asia, Turkey, North Africa and more. The Tapa room on the ground level is a 7-day, all day eating place thronged with sippers and nibblers of all ages. No it’s not small Spanish bites, the name derives from an immense Tapa cloth hanging on the wall. This chef is part of an “antipodean invasion” of young chefs from Australia and New Zealand (where Peter comes from). This includes Shane Osborn at Pied a Terre (OTM April 8, 2007 & April 20, 2008), Brett Graham at The Ledbury (OTM April 1, 2007), David Thompson of Nahm (first Thai restaurant in Europe to receive a Michelin star), and Nic Watts at Roka (OTM April 10, 2005), all of whom we’ve met (and raved about) in the past; dates of their interviews in the OTM Audio Archive are in parentheses.

Brothers Sam & Eddie Hart who we met 5 years ago at Fino (OTM February 22, 2004), a great Spanish themed restaurant briefly closed now for repairs following plumbing-caused floods. They also opened Barrafina, a true Tapas bar, but we met them at their new venture Quo Vadis, a combination restaurant and private eating and drinking club. To prove their versatility the Harts decided on traditional British “comfort food,” which is well executed and just the thing to fortify diners for the cold and damp weather. The lovely dining room with art deco stained glass windows looking out to a Soho street enhances the eating experience. Skate wing was fabulous, Oxtail pudding perhaps an acquired taste but Peter loved it.

We experimented with 2 different experiences in London dining, both worthy of your consideration. First is a trip into the surrounding country for lunch or dinner and overnight at a luxurious “Country House”. Such places can be found in virtually every direction, but in our case we headed for Pennyhill Park, near the Royal Ascot racecourse, Windsor and Eton. Here we were delighted to renew acquaintance with Chef Michael Wignall, recruited from Yorkshire’s Devonshire Arms (OTM interview here broadcast May 14, 2006) to put restaurant, Latymer, on the culinary map – and he delivered, earning a Michelin star within a year. Michael’s delicately plated dishes are a treat for both eye and palate! But last summer’s guests the San Diego Chargers, who stayed there preparing for their pre-season game against the New Orleans Saints, opted for heartier fare!

Second, sampling the offerings of “Gastropubs,” a new take on “Pub Grub”, hearty traditional British favorites, is worth consideration. Gordon Ramsay now has a couple of these, but our test drive was at The Thomas Cubitt, in lovely Belgravia. Mr. Cubitt was apparently a builder responsible for much of the architecture in this part of London, and also an ancestor of Prince Charles’ new bride Lady Camilla. The ground floor pub section is convivial, and very noisy, which is great if that’s what you’re looking for. We tried the white table cloth upstairs dining room where the food is fine restaurant quality. This combination is replicated at a number of Gastropubs, and you’ll find it in places where a “First floor dining room” is indicated (for our American listeners, this is the 2nd floor.

Where did we go on Valentine’s Day you might be wondering? Fortunate to have a friend in the right place we got Iqbal Wahab (OTM April 27, 2008), owner Roast restaurant at Borough Market, to make a fashionably late lunch reservation at Roast, and what a good job we did! The glorious dining room at Roast was still busy at 5PM when we concluded Chef Lawrence Keogh’s (OTM March 18, 2007) great lunch selection with a slow-roasted lamb shoulder supposedly for 2 but enough for 4. Be warned if you’re in London for one of the special days which the UK has imported from the USA, like Valentine’s, Mother’s and Father’s Days. Book well in advance because everywhere is packed.

So did we miss anything? Well-known Chef Richard Corrigan (OTM March 18, 2007) now has Corrigan’s Mayfair, which is getting rave reviews; but we hear his well-loved Lindsay House is to close soon when the lease is up. For seafood lovers he also runs Bentley’s, just off Piccadilly. Murano, one of Gordon Ramsay’s latest ventures just won a Michelin star in its first year of operation. We couldn’t find time to fit them into our schedule, they were so busy, but there’s always next year……… What can we say except “enjoy!”